Happy Christmas Everyone!!

Hope you all have a wonderful Christmas and very festive holidays, we miss you all!! Hampi is wonderful, but it lacks the Christmas cheer of home - and from what I hear the snowy whiteness.....

None the less, we are having a fabulous time here in Hampi, it is a boulderers paradise.  Like every new climbing destination, it takes a few days to get your head into the zone, and to harden your finger tips (it hurts to type).   A proper update will follow.  For now, here's the best of Spain, from our month in September.  Enjoy!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carolemcgloughlin/sets/72157625280341338/

Goa

After a early rise (5.30am), haggling with a sleepy taxi-man, a fast spin across town to CST, a 12 hour (ish nothing ever runs to schedule, we're learning) train ride south and a taxi, we arrive in Goa, in Panaji (or Panjim, everything seems to have two names) at Casa Paradiso, Lonely Planets “Our Pick” accommodation – it was basic but adequate. It was late and we just wanted somewhere for the night. We were hungry, so after a short walk we found a local Indian restaurant and were immediately ushered into a chilly air con room past the hustle and bustle of the front room, strange I was thinking to myself. We sat and looked through the menu, which almost immediately I noticed was a different colour and had “A/C Menu” on it... I mentioned this to Andrew and we decided to sit out in the hustle and bustle and eat the same food at about 25% cheaper. The A/C room was too cold..

Quiet Morning in Panaji Streets

It was almost like a weight had been lifted off my head the next morning when I woke – we wandered the streets of Panjim and although there were still hundreds of people, it didn't have the same manic feeling as Mumbai did. You could breathe. There isn't a whole lot to see and do in Panaji, it is an old Portuguese town and the remnants of colonial buildings are still very evident if a little run down. So the following morning we decided to head north to Candolim, one of the northern Goan beaches where we decided to stay a little out of the village in Dona Florina's Guest house. This was a stone's throw from the beach, and the beach was beautiful. An endless sandy beach. I'd like to say a “a white sand beach” but it was more of an orangery hue with a gigantic ship wreck almost shading the beach. Our favourite spot on the beach was a shack called “Pete's Shack” which served wonderful food morning noon and night.

The view from just outside our room in Dona Florina

Petrol Station in Candolim

The beach in Candolim

The view of the ship wreck looming over the beach

After a few days there, we headed south to a place called Palolem, supposedly a quiet hidden gem. Unfortunately, this gem has been discovered but its still a wonderful beach, just far too many people. However, we're chilling out and enjoying the hassle free (well... if you consider come into my shop, take a look, looking for free, can I ask you a question, will you come to my shop, please just take a look, mine is different from her's, please take a look…. As hassle free – of course looking isn't for free and if you take a look you really are expected to buy... she says now the proud of two necklaces!! ok make that four necklaces, two bracelets and a pair of earrings!! ) I still feel bad that I didn't buy more, not because I want / need any more jewelery, but you do feel bad for them, its a hard life that many Indians have been born into. Talking with a couple of them it couldn't be more different from our Western society. From the smallest of things – like we see traditional beauty in darker tanned skin, whereas they look to the Western world and see pale skin as beauty and prosperity. Like at home in pharmacies you can buy self tanning, here all the creams are whitening, but they some do not stop there and use chemical such as bleach to attempt to whiten their skin to make it look milky as Westerns. This is not only true of Indian but a lot of the South East Asian countries too. Many of the girls will never see their parents and families again after marriage. For example, one seller when she travels back home to her husband and family, must keep her face covered at all times and may only show her face to her husband and children. None of his extended family or friends will ever see her face. She is almost liberated working in Goa because nobody knows her here so she does not need to keep her face covered. Families are traditionally large (not unlike Ireland of old) and the eldest children may never have formal education and are expected, from a early age, to move hundreds of miles from home to help earn a living for the family back home. The two jewelery seller sisters we met, 18 and 15 had been selling jewelery on the beach since the elder was 10. She'd no schooling but was sending money home so that here younger brothers and sisters might have the opportunity. Her family lived near Hampi and for 6 months of the year she lives some 600 miles west in Goa on the beaches, for the other 6 months - 3 are spent making jewelery the other 3 are spent in the paddy fields.

A quiet moment on the beach in Palolem

Beach Sellers

On Friday we head for Hampi..... roll on the bouldering !!

Mumbai

Gateway of India, Mumbai

And so we arrive in Mumbai, India. A new country, a new timezone, a new sub-continent, a new city, a new way of life and an utterly mind blowing and overwhelming experience. I keep hearing Andrew whispering in my ear, relax, your making me tense, relax. But for some reason I can't and I can't actually put my finger on why? Its not that I don't feel safe, though I am clutching my camera, just in case – but it is the shear number of people, that makes me feel uneasy. Maybe I'm a bit agoraphobic. It feels like you are coming out of a large concert all the time. But its also the way people treat you here. The hotel we are staying in is lovely, complete with, lift-men, doormen and bell boys – but it is as if I don't exist. They look right past me and talk directly to Andrew. Every morning I get into the lift first, and its “Good Morning, Sir” “How are you today?” “What have you planned?” or something such similar, looking right through me at Andrew, I barely get a nod.

Local Cricket in Oval Maidan, Colaba, Mumbai

Its loud and noisy, its smelly, its wonderful colourful but at the same it dirty and grimy. You don't go to India to see things per say, you go to experience it. We walked around the Colaba and Fort areas, looking at the all the colonial building mixed through an array of modern, derelict and collapsing buildings and concrete jungle. But it's the people that make what it is, and more importantly, the sheer numbers. For example, yesterday was Sunday, which like much of Europe most businesses were closed and streets were quieter (only in the sense that there were not as many cars/taxis about, so less horns) but that did not make it feel less crowded - in fact maybe it was more crowded... Every quiet street had a local game of cricket, played with a tennis ball and most players running barefoot. Then there was Oval Maidan (the local park), about 4 times the size of St. Stephen's Green, it had a cricket oval at either end with a game playing in each and in between (the size of another 2 cricket ovals) there must have been 50 / 100 (too many to count!) cricket creases just full of people playing - kids, teenagers & adults. There were literally 1000's of people playing... it was hard to see where one game started and the other ended. To give a sense of scale to Mumbai, there are more than 16 million people living in the city. 2.5 million people pass through CST (the central railway station) daily. There are a mere 17 public toilets for every 1 million people and there are about 29,000 people per sq km.

Streets of Mumbai

Colaba, where we are staying, maybe epitomizes Mumbai and the class and wealth divide. The streets are lined, both with markets stalls (selling everything from cheap clothing to giant balloons) and up market high street, with everything from Nike, Nikon, Body Shop, to Louis Vuitton. Everyone from the clearly wealthy Indians to whole families living on the streets. This afternoon we walked passed a group of small semi naked children and their parents all asleep on the street at the entrance to a busy petrol station on a road junction. Poverty is obvious and a huge problem. 

CST (Victoria) Central Train Station in Mumbai

And Onto Bangkok

Our time in Tonsai has came to an end and we were sad to leave.  We were finally getting into the swing of things.  It took the first two weeks to really acclimatise to life and the climbing in Thailand. But for the final 10 days we found projects to work and we were feeling more confident and happy with our climbing.  On the last day climbing Andrew sent his first ever 7b.  It only took 4 attempts, so clearly he has not reached his limit.  The route was Tiger Queen on the beach in Dum's Kitchen, a short but stiff little route.  On day one, he wired all the moves and surprised himself by sending on the first attempt on day two. Needless to say he made the route look easy.  I had found a number of other routes that I would have liked to redpoint, but we just ran out of time.  Two routes in Wild Kingdom and a third route on Dum's Kitchen.  We left Tonsai with an excuse to return one day, projects to tick, but we also left happy with the couple of routes we'd ticked there.

Andrew sending his project, Tiger Queen, 7b in Dum's Kitchen..

Me bouldering on the beach in Tonsai

And so on the 1st December we arrived into bustling Bangkok at the very early hour of 5.30a.m. after an overnight bus ride.  We found our hotel, hoping that they would let us check in, but alas no – we had to come back at 10am :( but at least they let us leave our bags.  So off we trot down Khao San Rd (I can tell you I've never seen it this quiet!) at 6am – a couple of laps of the area, a very long breakfast, and a trip to a coffee shop for coffee and Internet and it was finally 10am – and we were allowed to our room - a room with AC and a hot shower, oh the little joys... The next three days were spent sightseeing. First up the ultra modern, ultra large MBK shopping centre, Wat Pho and the magnificent Grand Palace, the obligatory walk down Khao San Road for a little shopping, and of course find the quiet coffee corner off the beaten track, to relax and get away from the bedlam.

Base jumping from the top of Tonsai Roof

One of the glorious buildings inside the grand palace

Andrew and the Grand Palace Bangkok

And then we were on a bus to the airport....if I wasn't awake before getting on the bus, I was as soon as he started driving.  It was one of the most hair raising bus journeys I have ever been on!   Next stop Mumbai.

Tonsai

One things for sure, if nothing else, the weather here is predictable (at least for the last week). I'd like to say that the rain has stopped completely, but alas it hasn't. However, we wake up every morning to glorious sunshine. Not bad I'd say! The temperature in my mind has risen – reaching a balmy 30+ C by midday. Gradually as the day progresses the clouds build and by about 4 o'clock we have some very threatening skies. Any time after that you feel the first big drops and in a matter of minutes the down pour begins (again!!) and lasts anything from 2 to 3 hours through to the middle of the night. This is not ordinary rain! It some of the heaviest rain that I've ever experienced. Day after day its creating rivers of the the paths and lanes. Water is flowing around your ankles if you dare venture out and you are soaked through and through in a matter of seconds. Along with the rain are cracks of thunder so loud that they make our little bungalow shudder. Its quite unbelievable really. Don't get me wrong, the glorious morning sunshine makes up for it – I'm just amazed by the intensity and power of the rain and thunder. Like the uncharacteristic cold north winds and rain we had in Greece, the weather is not normally like this...

So, what have we been up do these last few days. One of our rest days we decided to take one of the island tours and see Phi Phi Islands. The tour was about 6 hours and blitzed around all of the hots spots around the two islands, Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh. Starting the glorious white sand beach of Bamboo Island, then onto Viking cave where birds nests are collected for birds nest soup (a delicacy over here, an industry worth millions, you could be shot if you were suspected of trying to steal the birds nest). Then snorkeling in Lohsamah Bay and into Maya bay (the famous beach from the film “The Beach”), lunch in Phi Phi Don and cumulating with a snorkel in Hin Klang (I found “Nemo”). Good day to spend one of our rest days. I don't think we could do too many of those types of tours, it was soooo commercial. Also it really annoyed me to see how little regard was given to the coral. Nobody was told how delicate it was and to avoid touching as much as possible (or at all costs). People were just jumping out of the boat onto it, standing on it to take photos of each other .... it really made me sad. It takes so long to grow and dies so easily but what can you expect from the punters when the local guides that were just as bad.

Climbing has come together for us. I found me a project, I worked my project, and today I sent my project. I am a HAPPY CAMPER. The route was called Lars and Lars, a 7a, the last route on Tyrolean Wall. It took 3 days and 5 attempts to send. Three of these attempts were on a top rope the previous two days, wiring the moves and building up the confidence to lead it. Then today I took the plunge, the first attempt, also my warm up, was a bolt to bolt attempt. It was more nerves holding me back than anything else. On the way down, I practiced some of the moves (and clipping positions) that were holding me back and switched out a short draw for a mid length one on a very reachy, tenuous third clip. Then lowered off and took about a 45 minute rest. There were a group of friendly Japanese climbers who were itching to have a go, so that worked out well. They were working it too and were finding the same moves tricky, so that was nice to see (in a strange way :) ). Then it was my turn again, butterfly in my tummy to say the least as I figured it was my last good attempt of the day. I wasn't sure I would get it, but I knew I wanted it!! Andrew thought if I got through the first section (crux) then would be mine but I wasn't sure. Although the top section was a little easier, there was still a couple of big powerful moves for me and it was pumpy and run out to the chains. He was right though, I held it together. I made the strenuous third bolt clip and the tentative but powerful move into the grove almost wobbling myself off, hearing somewhere in the background Andrew shouting breathe Carole, breathe, relax. Taking a few deep breaths I edged my self up to reach the next good hold, my foot slipped but some how I held on, yikes, make the clip I thought to myself, phew!!! Oh no, I haven't fallen yet, better keep going, two very high feet, long reach, got it... no don't make the clip yet, you'll fall, feet higher, now clip, ah still on haven't fallen yet, can't rest gotta keep going... slopers yuck, go on a little higher, where's that hold, ah there, feet high again, I could hear Andrew and the Japanese guys shouting encouragement – slap, ah, almost missed, feet right now clip... lots of deep breadths... quick look down, I'm at the last draw, I can't fall now – chains ahead, please don't fall, I just keep saying to myself as I quickly moved through the last section to the chains, clip, squeal, I'd done it!! HAPPY CAMPER!!

Andrew has attempted a couple of 7a+'s over the last couple of days and of course styled up my 7a today, kindly putting in the clips for me. Unfortunately, the 7a+ that he wants to attempt is seeping at the moment, with all the rain. Damn tufas!! Tomorrow, he's eyed a 7b to work... 

Its not a hard life really – but some things I could without!

So, we are half way through our time in Tonsai – I can't decide whether it feels like forever or not. A lot has happened in the two weeks - and then has it really? Maybe that is Thailand for you!!

Well one things for sure, we've had more rain than I suspect there has been in Ireland. Its rained almost every day since we arrived. About a week ago, it rained for about 8 hours stopped for an hour and then continued to rain for a further 18 hours … cabin fever started to kick in. Having said that, its warm rain, so who cares about getting a little wet and we are getting out and doing a few routes most mornings.

Both of us went to Thailand with not so much routes in mind but number and grades that we'd like to achieve. So far we are not close to getting those. A number of things are impacting us: Its taken far longer than expected to get used to the humidity and the style of climbing, Andrew is also carrying a finger injury and my back is not playing nice. It was quite disheartening in fact the first week, being spat off 6a/6b, literally slipping out of holds... I think the only route I flashed was a 5 the first few days. But slowly we are adjusting to the style, foot to hand and climb fast. We have eyed up lots of routes that we aim to try, whether we get them is another matter - we'll have fun trying!

I think we are seeing a break in the weather, we'd a gorgeous Thai day today – the sunny part of the day is getting longer and longer and rainy part less and less...

On another more annoying note, my camera is giving me a lot of unwanted pain :( Its a Nikon D300 – so if anyone has one / or knows – feel free to comment:

Basically, the CF led has started flashing on the the back of the camera when the camera is powered off. This is draining the battery over night if the battery is left in the camera. This happened a number of times when I started removing the battery. Then a few days later the camera would not turn on at all with a newly charged battery (it was as if the battery was still drained). I have two batteries, both were charged and tried.

I tried cleaning on the contacts on the lens, battery and camera, and also switching lenses and memory cards, with no joy.

Today, I tried again and miraculously the camera turned on!?! CF led still flashing if powered off.. so I took it out for a test – and it was very “temperamental”. Most of the time I could take a handful of photos before it would stop and act like the battery was dead. I would take the battery out for a while (20 minutes or so) and then it would work again. On occasion when you looked through the viewfinder, all possible focal points would fade in and out and the background become fuzzy, like a loose connection.

So, I am none the wiser. From my research on the interweb I've found that the flashing CF led could be a faulty clock battery. But some of the comments on this seems contradictory, some say that the camera will not work (like mine) and some say what does it matter if the clock battery is not charged only the dates will be wrong.... also the focal problem today does not help matters. On a plus note, it does appear that I might be able to get camera to slowly (very slowly) plod along (the very occasional photo) until we get to Bangkok.. the question is – is it going to be fixed easily or will it need to be properly serviced and how long will that take? …..... or is it time for a new camera?

Hello Thailand!

And so the next part of our adventure begins! We left Dublin for Thailand last Thursday afternoon after what felt like a very short time back home. It was great to catch up with our families and friends. In fact, our time at home felt like a holiday unlike the usual coming back from a sports climbing trip and going straight back to work less than 12 hours later. We had time to chill out, relax and enjoy being home. It made me homesick being home ?!? (I suppose homesick at the prospect of being away for the next six months). 

So a flying visit to Bangkok, quiet literally. We landed in Bangkok's Survanabhumi Airport still unsure of what our plans were , even going through customs and collecting our bags we thought we'd take a bus into Khao San Road, find somewhere to stay an d figure out getting a bus the next day. We were both tired and felt we would be prolonging the jet lag if we stopped in Ban gkok for a day. So seeing the signs for buses to South Terminal Bus Station (for buses to the South of the country) we decid ed to keep going, spending our first night in Thailand on a bus and getting into Tonsai earley the next morning. We plan to see Bangkok on our way out of Thailand. Unlike Bus Eireann, the buses are surprisingly comfortable and as soon as we pulled out of the bus terminal I was out like a light, only to wake about 10 hours later about 60 miles from Krabi. After one flight, two buses, one taxi and one long tail boat ride we splashed into Tonsai and all the fond memories of the idyllic spot came back. We hauled our bags up the hill and found a cheap cabin for the night. Really cheap!. In fact, cheaper than I remembered - 200 Baht (approx 5 Euro) for a very very basic bamboo cabin - where we crashed out for the day. We (or maybe I) must be getting soft in my old age, because after two night in our little cabin I wanted to move - it really was basic - no flushing toilet, no sink, a low pressure shower almost in the toilet, no light in the bathroom, the cabin itself was very dark (even with the lights on you needed a headtorch to see things), and the window was missing a pane of glass. So we went on the hunt for a new home and found one at Dream Valley, a brightly light wooden bungalow with a sink in the bathroom :) for a whopping 500 Baht ( approx 12.50 Euro ) including a buffet breakfast ( AS MUCH AS WE CAN POSSIBLY EAT :) happy Andrew! ) , so not bad at all... and although it is still basic, it is a hundred times better than the previous. I actually burst into tears once we decided to move there, so tired and happy not going back to the other place. 

So now, here in Tonsai for our fifth night, we have not seen the sun yet. I think we are catching the tail end of the Monsoon sea son. Yesterday it must have rained heavily for about 12 hours solidly (and had been raining on and off before that since we arrived) but thank fully today it was dry (but overcast), positive thinking - tomorrow I'll see the sun!

Amongst the cabin hunt, recovering from jet lag, the rain and tummy troubles, we've had 2 days climbing, though it has to be said that neither of us are climbing well, still trying to come to terms with the humidity and jet lag. It is taking us time to find our feet again on the rock, but no doubt that will come.