Latest Flickr Photos

I've popped a set of photos up on flickr from the month in Greece and the month in Thailand, if anyone fancies a wee look / see....

Greece and Thailand

Bali

On the beach in Kuta, Bali

 We left the hustle and bustle of India for a relaxing week on the beach in Bali, or so we thought!!  After more than 36 hours of traveling we arrive in a very humid overcast blustery Denpansar and slowly make our way to Kuta, one of the closest beaches to the airport.  We didn't feel like traipsing any further.  Found ourselves a "nice" room, had some food and crashed out for the evening.  Waking late the next morning we went for a wander around to acquaint ourselves and chill out on the beach.  No further than 100 m from the hotel, we were approached by a man with "free" scratch cards and guess what - "we won the grand price!!" Both hungry and skeptical we told the man we'd come back in half an hour and he could drive us to collect our prise then but not before - he tried hard to get us to go then, but food was more important than winning a very "skeptical 500 US dollars or a week free hotel".  We never went back - after breakfast we quickly google'ed and confirmed our suspicions that is was all a hoax, a scam to try and get unsuspecting tourists to buy time share apartments. Phew!!

The next couple of days went smoothly, nothing to strange, not so much sunshine, but pleasantly warm and the sea was wonderful. Day 3 ended sorta pear-shaped :( After dinner we came back to find our room had been broken into.  We'd most of our valuables with us, but we'd left Andrew's Ipod behind charging, and someone (who obviously had access to a key - no forced entry) had taken the ipod, earphones, charger and case - bugger. In short, hotel staff were less than helpful, they're stories kept changing and they wouldn't let us speak to a manager and they wouldn't not call the police.  After a lot of arguing they eventually took Andrew to the police station - where he was kindly (ahem) asked for money in exchange for a police report - a police report which if he had paid more for would still be valid when we get home, but this was goes out of date next month.  The whole system is corrupt if you ask me... neither of us felt that we could stay in the hotel any longer, but we'd just paid of the following two nights.  There wasn't a hope in hell of getting our money back and no sign of any management.  We left lets say a little rattled.  The rest of the stay though pleasant was not as relaxing as planned, we remained on edge, we'd to carry heavy day packs with everything valuable for fear of anything else going missing.   So, unfortunately, that is our tale of Bali, I think I will have to go back and get a better impression.

It is a surfer's paradise!!

Closing Thoughts!!

Our time in India has come to an end. I think I can safely speak for both of us when I say we are ready to leave and are looking forward to Australia – meeting up with friends and family and some creature comforts.... that is, of course after a short beach week in Bali :) Our final couple of days were spent touring the Keralan backwaters and an impending 36 hour journey from here (Fort Cochin) to Bali (encompassing all kinds of transport from planes to trains and automobiles). The Keralan backwaters are a series of natural and man made canals and lakes interconnecting the little land masses and villages. It has an almost tribal feeling, however, it is not tribes people but relatively poor group of both fisherman and traditional craftsmen and their families. We (along with 7 other tourists) spent about 5 hours on a large wooden covered in canoe with 2 boatman (one back and one front) slowly guiding us through the waterways using long bamboo poles to power the boat. We stopped midway for a traditional Keralan rice lunch served on a banana leaf. Of course Indian people in general don't use knives and forks and simply use their hands, but we were all given a spoon to aid us in our eating. The peace and tranquility of the backwaters was certainly a nice way to end our travel time in India.

We've had a wonderful time here but its definitely time to leave – I think there comes a time in ones travels in India that you have just had enough and need a break – it doesn't change the way I think about the country – I still think its an amazing place and a place that we both want to come back to in the not to distant future – the north has yet to be explored!

Of all the countries that I have traveled too in the past 10 years – I think this is the one that has affected me the most. It is a country that, from when I can remember, I have always wanted to travel too and even now I want to come back for more. Its hard to articulate exactly how and why? Every day something about the country surprises you!! Today, in Chennai, we got a taxi just a few short kilometers from the centre of town and wandered into a Cafe (Cafe Coffee Day) and it feels as if we've just walked into some European/American upmarket chain of coffee houses and the clientèle are just as fitting – just another little reminder that we are in a country of diversity – and the other half lives no differently or more lasciviously than we do at home. I think the big thing is the sheer size of the population and the wealth divide that comes with that – but its is so obviously inter-weaved. But its not just the population and poverty, it's the attitude and actions of the people you come into contact with that make it unique. There is one way of doing things: the classic example is ordering from a menu – I wanted a grilled cheese sandwich for lunch one day and on the menu was chilly cheese toast – so I asked for a cheese toast without the chilly – the waiter said “oh no you can't have that, its not on the menu”, so I asked him to check with the chef if maybe it was possible. He came back and said “no, it's not possible but you could have a cheese sandwich” – so I asked him if he could toast or grill the sandwich, and he said yes. Is that not chilly cheese toast without the chilly!! This happens over and over again – its amusing, but after a while frustrating. Its the little things that make you love and loathe the country simultaneously. The longer you are here your tolerance for nagging rickshaw drivers (its hard to walk 100 m down the road with out being asked if you want to go sightseeing, only 50 rupees, or where you going you need a lift, etc...) or persistent salesmen lessons (browsing in a shop for free really doesn't exist!) and your thrive for personal space increases (doesn't exist here).

What we'll miss about India:

The stunning and diverse scenery – from the mountains to the beaches and everything in between. Hampi – what a bouldering hot-spot, all the wonderful people we met, both climbers and locals. The hardworking ladies in their beautiful and colourful saris. All the wonderful arts and crafts – from wall hanging to bed covers, furniture to ornaments, clothing to jewelery – I wanted to buy it all !! Friendly locals. Strangers on the train who over you some cookies and genuinely want to chat and help you out. Smiling chatty kids, just wanting to say hi to you!! Food – tasty, tasty, tasty, colourful and spicy – curries from all over the south, flavors to tickle the taste buds (well that is when your remember to ask for it not too hot and your are not in tears by the end!) and differing with every new place we went. Blue skies. Ladies queues & quotas : in many (most) public places there's a separate queue for ladies, which is invariably faster and normally you can get 2 tickets for what ever you are queuing for. Indian Rail, well not sure if I will actually miss it, but its certainly a good system and services a huge part of the country.

What we won't miss about India:

The constant smell of open sewers and rubbish. Rubble / cracked and broken paving revealing the smelly drains. The lack of environmental awareness (rubbish rubbish everywhere – and there are street cleaners – I think its a case as long as its not on my front door step). The lack of personal space. The men and their attitudes towards women - western women in particular. Sometimes its as if I'm not there, but others they stop what they are doing to have a good look. But its not just that (and I am making sweeping general statements, as I've met some really nice hard working lovely and genuinely friendly Indian men) to me a lot of the men come across as lazy with the women taking on the brunt of the hard work and the men sit around and at most discuss things, whilst fixing their hair, retying their skirts (yes skirts – traditionally the men wear a sarong type skirt). The roads are in an awful state, but it was women I noticed with the pick axes with five or so men standing around looking and chatting as the woman did some backbreaking work. It's also the women who work the tea plantations doing all the pruning. Seeing the poverty all over the place, particularly the small children. Being asked by a random stranger while walking up the street minding your own business “With what country are you from?” for the fifth time that hour. Getting stared at. The Indian queuing system - barge forward and skip everyone, then smile and head bob. Pushy Indian sales men and rickshaw drivers. Car horns.

What we are looking forward to:

The refreshing thought of my own personal space - I think I might be agoraphobic. Friends and family. Hot water as the norm not a luxury. Girly products (ok, Andrew not so much on this one) - I'm not being picky some essential things just aren't available. Fresh fruit please, there is plenty of fruit but its hard work and that's when you trust it. A glass of tap water. Ice. Meat (ok this is Andrew). Bowl of cereal and ice cold milk (ok, that's for Andrew too - mine was slightly more specific, bowl of crunchy nut clusters and ice cold milk from LEINSTER – preferably Premier Daires, but Avonmore will do).

And its with mixed feelings we leave, a lump in my throat as I'm not done with the country – but I need a break!!

Whistle Stop Tour of South India (Hampi, Bangalore, Mysore, Ooty, Coimbatore, Munnar, Periyar, Fort Cochin)

We've finally left Hampi and it was a happy/sad leaving. We'd met so many wonderful people, many of whom have become friends, who made our time in Goan Corner so memorable. We really hope to meet up with many of them again. But it was time to go and move on to new adventures. So, we caught the night train to Bangalore and onto Mysore. The trains in India cater for all budgets - and as it was our first night train we decided to go 2AC (the trains in India are divided into 5 classes, 1AC, 2AC, 3AC, Sleeper & Chair) which was surprisingly comfortable and we managed to get a fairly good nights sleep. We arrived in Mysore at about midday after a brief stop in Bangalore for breakfast and to say goodbye to the last of our Hampi friends. Mysore is the city of sandalwood and the main attraction is the palace. We were not overly impressed - the palace itself is very opulent (Andrew's fancy word!) and grand, but having spent some time wandering around the palace in Bangkok and having come from the ancient temples in Hampi, it really did not compare. 

Mysore Palace

Happy Us in Mysore

Next stop was the hill station of Ooty. Dating from British rule, it was established in the early 19th century as the summer headquarters of the then Madras government. Andrew had picked out a very nice guest house to stay in but we learned that the scale on the Lonely Planet maps is really not to be trusted! After walking around for well over an hour and a half with the guts of 20 kg on my back and 10 kg on my front (damn climbing gear!), I put my foot down and suggested we get a rickshaw :) The guest house was worth the wait, it was perched at the top of the hill over looking Ooty, a nice clean room (it was actually clean – not Indian clean!) with its own private garden and had plenty hot water (I felt like I was in heaven). The main attraction of Ooty is the miniature train, which is romantic in itself and the scenic views of the mountain pass are stunning. Unfortunately, the train was only running half way and instead of getting it the whole way to Mettupalayam, it stopped in Coonor where we met a German diplomat and shared a taxi the remainder of the way down. This was good though as we had the opportunity to stop and take in some of the amazing views. 

Looking out over Ooty Hills

Minature Train in Ooty Station

The journey down

The next part of the journey we did as local as possible, with local buses, which although are rickety and at best uncomfortable and crowded, they leave as soon as they fill (and with a country of population of around 1.2 billion, this happen rather quickly!). From Mettupalayam we got a bus to Coimbatore and a rickshaw across town where we stayed the night. The following morning we got a bus to Uddamalpet and from there a bus to Munnar. Munnar is a sea of luscious tea plantations, hill upon hill of rolling spongy carpet. We spent a good long morning just wandering around high up in the hills away from the hustle and bustle of the local town and sound of horns.

See spongy carpet :)

Spongy Munnar Tea Plantations

As our time in India was rapidly running out (more quickly than we'd realised... somewhere we lost a day thinking that Monday was Sunday! - but luckily figured that one out before trains and planes were missed!) we decided to get a taxi from Munnar to Periyar. In the grand scheme of things the taxi ride was reasonably cheap, only about 40 Euro, but considering the same journey on local buses would have cost no more than 2 Euro each it was a bit extravagant, but so much more comfortable and quicker. Periyar is a wildlife sanctuary in the Western Ghats. We found a quaint little castle like guest house to stay in that is furnished in antique furniture. In the hope of spotting some tigers (wishful thinking!) we got up early and joined a early morning nature walk. Unfortunately, no elephants or tigers, however we did see some bison, wild boar, mongoose, saba deer, monkeys, an array of birds (kingfisher, storks, herons and woodpeckers) and an awful lot of poo (very large very fresh elephant poo, porcupine poo, sloth bear poo... and a monkey almost poo'ed on us!). The highlight of the day, however, was on the boat trip later in the evening when we saw a herd of elephants grazing in the wild, it was beautiful!! 

Early Morning Nature Walk

Beautiful Wild Elephants in Periyar Wildlife Reverse

We followed our day in nature with a day on the bike, my idea I will admit, though maybe not my best idea in the world, I will also admit. Indian bicycles are not by any means equal to either of our bikes at home (but at least they had brakes unlike our previous attempt at a bike ride in Hampi). The tires were so bald that the bike would slide even when I was standing still. They had extremely "weird" geometry, my feet could barely touch the ground, no gears and extremely heavy which made the uphills fun as we'd to push them. Anyway it allowed us get out of town on our and for a bit of “fresh air” and countryside. 

Tea Plantation Pickers in Periyar

From Kumily we headed straight for Fort Cochin, which is a lovely little peninsular town just off the coast of Erunakulam. There is not much to see and do here, but its quiet and peaceful (relatively speaking) and has a few really good places to eat. The highlight, tourist wise, are the Chineese fishing nets along the waterfront and it is the gateway to the "backwaters" which hopefully we will experience tomorrow - todays attempt failed miserably when the tour we booked on failed to pick us up. Ready and posed for a fight to get our money back we were pleasantly surprised when the lady we booked with was so apologetic and gave us an immediate refund. Hopefully tomorrow we'll have a little more success! 

Chinese Fishing Nets in Fort Cochin

the hampi saga continues ...

We arrived in Hampi on December 17th with a plan of staying two weeks.  Since then, when asked how long we'll be staying here we' always reply "Aww, I think we'll stay a couple more weeks".  So, now a little more than four weeks here, we have booked our train ticket and leave on the 24th January. Much as we are sad, there are more places to see and more excitingly family and friends to see and catch up with. 

Our hut - our room is the last on the right!!

Interestingly, our extended stay here (though unplanned!) has been something that in each of the other climbing destinations on this trip we have not had the luxury to do.  Particularly, in both Kalymnos and Tonsai, after 3/3.5 weeks, we were both tired and needed a proper 3/4 day rest. However, at the same time, we're getting stronger and feeling more confident on the rock and wanted another 10 days of climbing to follow.  Here, really by accident, we've done just that.  About a week ago we both got sick (that was bound to happen somewhere on our trip) and were completely out of action for 2 days, this was followed by 2 bumbly days of climbing where neither of us had any power and we didn't push it.  We just took it easy and took the following day as a food filled rest day. We got up the next morning feeling a little demotivated, so we went in search of a new boulder on which to play. We headed to the "Egg Boulder Area" and got on a problem behind the "Hot Slapper" boulder.  A powerful 7a+ sit start problem.  I was working it as a stand start and Andrew the sit start.  Firstly it was great to have a problem that we could both work simultaneoulsy and secondly after 2 hours work, Andrew sent it in style.  Not only was it his first 7a boulder problem to date, but it was also a 7a+.   Unfortunately, I didn't get the stand start yet, but I think its something I can work and the stand start I think is probably a 6b/6b+.  The evening session was up on the plateau and I planned to get back on the classic problem on "TV" boulder - one I have been working for days and just can't get the last move.  It is a great little problem that is baffling a lot of people, particularly us shorter people who just can't reach through.  There are so many variations that you just have to find the one that will suit you!! So, with the intention of warming my fingers up on the problem and just jumping off midway, I start. I easily get through the tenuous (for me) first couple of moves and feel strong, so I keep going.  With great surprise to myself, I reach for the move that for me has been the crux and take it easily. I get my hands are on the top rail and somehow I keep going and top out.  The top out was a bit of a flapper (alot), but somehow I held it together.  I was so happy - I flashed my project on my warm up.  I can't describe that feeling, but it was fantasic.  What a great day for both of us!! We deserved the cold beer we had for dinner!!

Working a 6b/+ on the plateau - a short but powerful little problem!

Andrew on Cosmic Arete (7a)

So we have come to the conclusion that six weeks is the optimum minimum length for a climbing trip (if you've no other obligations, naturally!).  It gives you enough to "warm up" to the rock type, get fit and then send some projects.

Sonia on Harri's Traverse (7a+)

Andrew on 7a+ behind Hot Slapper.. his first 7a!!

Me working Classic Problem on TV boulder, which I later sent (6b/6b+)

Andrew working 7a+ on Sandwich Boulder

Me working the 6b+ on Sandwich Boulder

Over the last couple of days, I've been working another problem on the "TV" boulder (6b+/6c) and one one the "Sandwich Roof" also about (6b+).  I am making slow but gradual progress on both. Hopefully, I will have enough time left to send them.  Andrew, unfortunately, has injured his finger whilst climbing yesterday.  He was so close to getting his problem when we both heard a "pop". He was pulling on a very small flakey pocket, so we don't know whether it was the rock or something in his finger that made the noise, but simultaneously his finger hurt.  Fortunately, it hasn't swollen, so unlikely to have a seriously damaged tendon or pully, but at the same time it is too painful for him to climb.  In the interim, lots of chin-ups on the rings for him!!   

the power is coming, she says unconvinced!!

So, we are still in Hampi and still loving it. What can I say its a great place!! We are climbing 2 days on and 1 day off - with 3 session in those 2 days.  We are both starting to rack up a stack of projects. Every day (usually) I manage to tick one problem and start a few new ones. Grades, who needs grades, right? The guidebook while is useful as a guide, only has a very small percentage of problems and the grades are very subjective!

To put it in perspective, I've been warming up on 5's usually, but this one problem on "Sandwich Boulder" in Little Cave (for those that might know) took two days worth of attempts before I finally sent it.  It was a high and reachy, overhung to start and with a delicate finish.  Very technical and powerful and for me certainly not a 5 in keeping with others I have done recently - perhaps if you were 6ft then it was a 5!  Anyway, putting that aside it was a great problem to work and was a great sense of achievement when I finally got to the top. 

Mac working the 5c in Sandwich boulder

Andrew, like when we sport climbing has yet to find his limit.  He has flashed 6c's and has tried a number of 7a's and 7a+'s.  It's now sending time.  His current tick list looks something like this: 

• Torture Traverse 7a+ 
• Cosmic Arrete 7a
• Sandwich Roof 7a+
• Airplane 7a
• 3 7a on the Plateau
• 7a at Double Tap

Matt on Kingfisher (7b?)

Alessandro on a 7a in Egg Boulders

Hopefully the list is a lot shorter next time I blog and a few 7b's will be featuring on it.  For me I'm working a bunch of 6b/6b+s and a 6c.   I would love to get the 6c before I leave, but I'm not too concerned about the grades and more about getting volume in and feeling confident about bouldering - something that I never have before and for now, I am most certainly ignoring any highballs.... 

The burning fireworks man

FIre Damage to the Hut

New Years Fire Fun

Climbing aside, its been an eventful Christmas and New Year.  Both were spent relaxed and chilled out in our guest house, with a bunch of climbers, sitting around a campfire munching on yummy indian cuisine.  New Years was slightly more eventful with a spectacular (ahem, a large straw scarecrow, packed full of fireworks (almost like dynamite!) and lite in an open field) fire works display - indian style - light the firecrackers and worry about consequences afterwards.   And yes, there were consequences :)  One fire cracker didn't quite take an upwards trajectory, more a sidewards one and landed on the roof of our cabin. Luckily it was noticed immediately and put out but we live in mud huts with thatched straw roofs, so two minutes later we'd have lost everything - down to our passports, visas and money.  We were lucky - it must have been our night... and it was - it will be evening neither of us will forget because it was also the evening we got engaged :)

 

Hampi Island

We are slowly adjusting to our new temporary life in Hampi. The plan was to stay 2 weeks, but after being here a week already, I don't think two will be enough. The area is beautiful and there are more boulders than you could climb in a lifetime. The guest house chilled out with a great bunch of climbers from all across the globe. Why would we leave?

The Hampi Friendly Gecko!

Boulder View from Goan Corner

We are staying in Goan Corner, a large guest house with plenty of mud huts to house quite a large bunch of avid climbers. Shamilla, the owner, is a wonderfully eccentric lady who bakes the best deserts. Even though, I try to be good and not eat them, by the time the desert comes, beautiful smells wafting from the kitchen it is just too hard to say no.

The Temples in the Background

Palm verged Paddy fields

Sunset from Hanuman Temple (Monkey Temple)

But why are we here? To climb no less and what a climbers paradise it is. Acres upon acres of granite boulders to tear our little fingers apart. Having be safely tied to the end of a rope for the past 4 months, it took a few days to really start to feel comfortable bouldering again. Our daily routine has fallen easily into an early rise (0630-0700) breakfast, walking to the boulders for (0800-0830), back for lunch (1200), chillout for the afternoon and head back for a second session late afternoon (1600). We are in India and once the sun hits the rocks its too hot to climb – but in the shade, with a gentle breeze, all is good. Pictures will probably say more than words for here.

Andrew bouldering!

Rest days are spent either crossing the river and spending the morning in Hampi village or chilling out in Goan Corner. Crossing the river gives you a little reminder of what real India is like – it is a flurry of sellers and traders. We tend to forget this in the more isolated chilled out atmosphere on our side of the river. Today, however, a little more adventurously we rented bicycles and cycled to the Lake. The bikes themselves were part of the adventure as they were without brakes, appeared to be welded together in parts and generally creaked and cranked. The lake another adventure. A place where we could chill out and go for a swim? Well that was the plan. Andrew and I and some of our international friends set off and arrived at the lake along with a bunch of starring Indian men (leering might be more accurate!).  Most left briefly which allowed us jump in for a quick dip.  But the remains of the afternoon was overshadowed by seeing different groups just out right staring from different corners of the lake.  To me, it was quite unsettling and certainly not somewhere I would feel happy about going with only one or two girls.  Anyway, it was just another side of India to experience.