Tonsai

One things for sure, if nothing else, the weather here is predictable (at least for the last week). I'd like to say that the rain has stopped completely, but alas it hasn't. However, we wake up every morning to glorious sunshine. Not bad I'd say! The temperature in my mind has risen – reaching a balmy 30+ C by midday. Gradually as the day progresses the clouds build and by about 4 o'clock we have some very threatening skies. Any time after that you feel the first big drops and in a matter of minutes the down pour begins (again!!) and lasts anything from 2 to 3 hours through to the middle of the night. This is not ordinary rain! It some of the heaviest rain that I've ever experienced. Day after day its creating rivers of the the paths and lanes. Water is flowing around your ankles if you dare venture out and you are soaked through and through in a matter of seconds. Along with the rain are cracks of thunder so loud that they make our little bungalow shudder. Its quite unbelievable really. Don't get me wrong, the glorious morning sunshine makes up for it – I'm just amazed by the intensity and power of the rain and thunder. Like the uncharacteristic cold north winds and rain we had in Greece, the weather is not normally like this...

So, what have we been up do these last few days. One of our rest days we decided to take one of the island tours and see Phi Phi Islands. The tour was about 6 hours and blitzed around all of the hots spots around the two islands, Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh. Starting the glorious white sand beach of Bamboo Island, then onto Viking cave where birds nests are collected for birds nest soup (a delicacy over here, an industry worth millions, you could be shot if you were suspected of trying to steal the birds nest). Then snorkeling in Lohsamah Bay and into Maya bay (the famous beach from the film “The Beach”), lunch in Phi Phi Don and cumulating with a snorkel in Hin Klang (I found “Nemo”). Good day to spend one of our rest days. I don't think we could do too many of those types of tours, it was soooo commercial. Also it really annoyed me to see how little regard was given to the coral. Nobody was told how delicate it was and to avoid touching as much as possible (or at all costs). People were just jumping out of the boat onto it, standing on it to take photos of each other .... it really made me sad. It takes so long to grow and dies so easily but what can you expect from the punters when the local guides that were just as bad.

Climbing has come together for us. I found me a project, I worked my project, and today I sent my project. I am a HAPPY CAMPER. The route was called Lars and Lars, a 7a, the last route on Tyrolean Wall. It took 3 days and 5 attempts to send. Three of these attempts were on a top rope the previous two days, wiring the moves and building up the confidence to lead it. Then today I took the plunge, the first attempt, also my warm up, was a bolt to bolt attempt. It was more nerves holding me back than anything else. On the way down, I practiced some of the moves (and clipping positions) that were holding me back and switched out a short draw for a mid length one on a very reachy, tenuous third clip. Then lowered off and took about a 45 minute rest. There were a group of friendly Japanese climbers who were itching to have a go, so that worked out well. They were working it too and were finding the same moves tricky, so that was nice to see (in a strange way :) ). Then it was my turn again, butterfly in my tummy to say the least as I figured it was my last good attempt of the day. I wasn't sure I would get it, but I knew I wanted it!! Andrew thought if I got through the first section (crux) then would be mine but I wasn't sure. Although the top section was a little easier, there was still a couple of big powerful moves for me and it was pumpy and run out to the chains. He was right though, I held it together. I made the strenuous third bolt clip and the tentative but powerful move into the grove almost wobbling myself off, hearing somewhere in the background Andrew shouting breathe Carole, breathe, relax. Taking a few deep breaths I edged my self up to reach the next good hold, my foot slipped but some how I held on, yikes, make the clip I thought to myself, phew!!! Oh no, I haven't fallen yet, better keep going, two very high feet, long reach, got it... no don't make the clip yet, you'll fall, feet higher, now clip, ah still on haven't fallen yet, can't rest gotta keep going... slopers yuck, go on a little higher, where's that hold, ah there, feet high again, I could hear Andrew and the Japanese guys shouting encouragement – slap, ah, almost missed, feet right now clip... lots of deep breadths... quick look down, I'm at the last draw, I can't fall now – chains ahead, please don't fall, I just keep saying to myself as I quickly moved through the last section to the chains, clip, squeal, I'd done it!! HAPPY CAMPER!!

Andrew has attempted a couple of 7a+'s over the last couple of days and of course styled up my 7a today, kindly putting in the clips for me. Unfortunately, the 7a+ that he wants to attempt is seeping at the moment, with all the rain. Damn tufas!! Tomorrow, he's eyed a 7b to work...