the hampi saga continues ...

We arrived in Hampi on December 17th with a plan of staying two weeks.  Since then, when asked how long we'll be staying here we' always reply "Aww, I think we'll stay a couple more weeks".  So, now a little more than four weeks here, we have booked our train ticket and leave on the 24th January. Much as we are sad, there are more places to see and more excitingly family and friends to see and catch up with. 

Our hut - our room is the last on the right!!

Interestingly, our extended stay here (though unplanned!) has been something that in each of the other climbing destinations on this trip we have not had the luxury to do.  Particularly, in both Kalymnos and Tonsai, after 3/3.5 weeks, we were both tired and needed a proper 3/4 day rest. However, at the same time, we're getting stronger and feeling more confident on the rock and wanted another 10 days of climbing to follow.  Here, really by accident, we've done just that.  About a week ago we both got sick (that was bound to happen somewhere on our trip) and were completely out of action for 2 days, this was followed by 2 bumbly days of climbing where neither of us had any power and we didn't push it.  We just took it easy and took the following day as a food filled rest day. We got up the next morning feeling a little demotivated, so we went in search of a new boulder on which to play. We headed to the "Egg Boulder Area" and got on a problem behind the "Hot Slapper" boulder.  A powerful 7a+ sit start problem.  I was working it as a stand start and Andrew the sit start.  Firstly it was great to have a problem that we could both work simultaneoulsy and secondly after 2 hours work, Andrew sent it in style.  Not only was it his first 7a boulder problem to date, but it was also a 7a+.   Unfortunately, I didn't get the stand start yet, but I think its something I can work and the stand start I think is probably a 6b/6b+.  The evening session was up on the plateau and I planned to get back on the classic problem on "TV" boulder - one I have been working for days and just can't get the last move.  It is a great little problem that is baffling a lot of people, particularly us shorter people who just can't reach through.  There are so many variations that you just have to find the one that will suit you!! So, with the intention of warming my fingers up on the problem and just jumping off midway, I start. I easily get through the tenuous (for me) first couple of moves and feel strong, so I keep going.  With great surprise to myself, I reach for the move that for me has been the crux and take it easily. I get my hands are on the top rail and somehow I keep going and top out.  The top out was a bit of a flapper (alot), but somehow I held it together.  I was so happy - I flashed my project on my warm up.  I can't describe that feeling, but it was fantasic.  What a great day for both of us!! We deserved the cold beer we had for dinner!!

Working a 6b/+ on the plateau - a short but powerful little problem!

Andrew on Cosmic Arete (7a)

So we have come to the conclusion that six weeks is the optimum minimum length for a climbing trip (if you've no other obligations, naturally!).  It gives you enough to "warm up" to the rock type, get fit and then send some projects.

Sonia on Harri's Traverse (7a+)

Andrew on 7a+ behind Hot Slapper.. his first 7a!!

Me working Classic Problem on TV boulder, which I later sent (6b/6b+)

Andrew working 7a+ on Sandwich Boulder

Me working the 6b+ on Sandwich Boulder

Over the last couple of days, I've been working another problem on the "TV" boulder (6b+/6c) and one one the "Sandwich Roof" also about (6b+).  I am making slow but gradual progress on both. Hopefully, I will have enough time left to send them.  Andrew, unfortunately, has injured his finger whilst climbing yesterday.  He was so close to getting his problem when we both heard a "pop". He was pulling on a very small flakey pocket, so we don't know whether it was the rock or something in his finger that made the noise, but simultaneously his finger hurt.  Fortunately, it hasn't swollen, so unlikely to have a seriously damaged tendon or pully, but at the same time it is too painful for him to climb.  In the interim, lots of chin-ups on the rings for him!!   

the power is coming, she says unconvinced!!

So, we are still in Hampi and still loving it. What can I say its a great place!! We are climbing 2 days on and 1 day off - with 3 session in those 2 days.  We are both starting to rack up a stack of projects. Every day (usually) I manage to tick one problem and start a few new ones. Grades, who needs grades, right? The guidebook while is useful as a guide, only has a very small percentage of problems and the grades are very subjective!

To put it in perspective, I've been warming up on 5's usually, but this one problem on "Sandwich Boulder" in Little Cave (for those that might know) took two days worth of attempts before I finally sent it.  It was a high and reachy, overhung to start and with a delicate finish.  Very technical and powerful and for me certainly not a 5 in keeping with others I have done recently - perhaps if you were 6ft then it was a 5!  Anyway, putting that aside it was a great problem to work and was a great sense of achievement when I finally got to the top. 

Mac working the 5c in Sandwich boulder

Andrew, like when we sport climbing has yet to find his limit.  He has flashed 6c's and has tried a number of 7a's and 7a+'s.  It's now sending time.  His current tick list looks something like this: 

• Torture Traverse 7a+ 
• Cosmic Arrete 7a
• Sandwich Roof 7a+
• Airplane 7a
• 3 7a on the Plateau
• 7a at Double Tap

Matt on Kingfisher (7b?)

Alessandro on a 7a in Egg Boulders

Hopefully the list is a lot shorter next time I blog and a few 7b's will be featuring on it.  For me I'm working a bunch of 6b/6b+s and a 6c.   I would love to get the 6c before I leave, but I'm not too concerned about the grades and more about getting volume in and feeling confident about bouldering - something that I never have before and for now, I am most certainly ignoring any highballs.... 

The burning fireworks man

FIre Damage to the Hut

New Years Fire Fun

Climbing aside, its been an eventful Christmas and New Year.  Both were spent relaxed and chilled out in our guest house, with a bunch of climbers, sitting around a campfire munching on yummy indian cuisine.  New Years was slightly more eventful with a spectacular (ahem, a large straw scarecrow, packed full of fireworks (almost like dynamite!) and lite in an open field) fire works display - indian style - light the firecrackers and worry about consequences afterwards.   And yes, there were consequences :)  One fire cracker didn't quite take an upwards trajectory, more a sidewards one and landed on the roof of our cabin. Luckily it was noticed immediately and put out but we live in mud huts with thatched straw roofs, so two minutes later we'd have lost everything - down to our passports, visas and money.  We were lucky - it must have been our night... and it was - it will be evening neither of us will forget because it was also the evening we got engaged :)