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January 15, 2011

the hampi saga continues ...

We arrived in Hampi on December 17th with a plan of staying two weeks.  Since then, when asked how long we'll be staying here we' always reply "Aww, I think we'll stay a couple more weeks".  So, now a little more than four weeks here, we have booked our train ticket and leave on the 24th January. Much as we are sad, there are more places to see and more excitingly family and friends to see and catch up with. 
Our hut - our room is the last on the right!!

Interestingly, our extended stay here (though unplanned!) has been something that in each of the other climbing destinations on this trip we have not had the luxury to do.  Particularly, in both Kalymnos and Tonsai, after 3/3.5 weeks, we were both tired and needed a proper 3/4 day rest. However, at the same time, we're getting stronger and feeling more confident on the rock and wanted another 10 days of climbing to follow.  Here, really by accident, we've done just that.  About a week ago we both got sick (that was bound to happen somewhere on our trip) and were completely out of action for 2 days, this was followed by 2 bumbly days of climbing where neither of us had any power and we didn't push it.  We just took it easy and took the following day as a food filled rest day. We got up the next morning feeling a little demotivated, so we went in search of a new boulder on which to play. We headed to the "Egg Boulder Area" and got on a problem behind the "Hot Slapper" boulder.  A powerful 7a+ sit start problem.  I was working it as a stand start and Andrew the sit start.  Firstly it was great to have a problem that we could both work simultaneoulsy and secondly after 2 hours work, Andrew sent it in style.  Not only was it his first 7a boulder problem to date, but it was also a 7a+.   Unfortunately, I didn't get the stand start yet, but I think its something I can work and the stand start I think is probably a 6b/6b+.  The evening session was up on the plateau and I planned to get back on the classic problem on "TV" boulder - one I have been working for days and just can't get the last move.  It is a great little problem that is baffling a lot of people, particularly us shorter people who just can't reach through.  There are so many variations that you just have to find the one that will suit you!! So, with the intention of warming my fingers up on the problem and just jumping off midway, I start. I easily get through the tenuous (for me) first couple of moves and feel strong, so I keep going.  With great surprise to myself, I reach for the move that for me has been the crux and take it easily. I get my hands are on the top rail and somehow I keep going and top out.  The top out was a bit of a flapper (alot), but somehow I held it together.  I was so happy - I flashed my project on my warm up.  I can't describe that feeling, but it was fantasic.  What a great day for both of us!! We deserved the cold beer we had for dinner!!
Working a 6b/+ on the plateau - a short but powerful little problem!

Andrew on Cosmic Arete (7a)

So we have come to the conclusion that six weeks is the optimum minimum length for a climbing trip (if you've no other obligations, naturally!).  It gives you enough to "warm up" to the rock type, get fit and then send some projects.

Sonia on Harri's Traverse (7a+)
Andrew on 7a+ behind Hot Slapper.. his first 7a!!

Me working Classic Problem on TV boulder, which I later sent (6b/6b+)


Andrew working 7a+ on Sandwich Boulder

Me working the 6b+ on Sandwich Boulder
Over the last couple of days, I've been working another problem on the "TV" boulder (6b+/6c) and one one the "Sandwich Roof" also about (6b+).  I am making slow but gradual progress on both. Hopefully, I will have enough time left to send them.  Andrew, unfortunately, has injured his finger whilst climbing yesterday.  He was so close to getting his problem when we both heard a "pop". He was pulling on a very small flakey pocket, so we don't know whether it was the rock or something in his finger that made the noise, but simultaneously his finger hurt.  Fortunately, it hasn't swollen, so unlikely to have a seriously damaged tendon or pully, but at the same time it is too painful for him to climb.  In the interim, lots of chin-ups on the rings for him!!   

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