Closing Thoughts!!

Our time in India has come to an end. I think I can safely speak for both of us when I say we are ready to leave and are looking forward to Australia – meeting up with friends and family and some creature comforts.... that is, of course after a short beach week in Bali :) Our final couple of days were spent touring the Keralan backwaters and an impending 36 hour journey from here (Fort Cochin) to Bali (encompassing all kinds of transport from planes to trains and automobiles). The Keralan backwaters are a series of natural and man made canals and lakes interconnecting the little land masses and villages. It has an almost tribal feeling, however, it is not tribes people but relatively poor group of both fisherman and traditional craftsmen and their families. We (along with 7 other tourists) spent about 5 hours on a large wooden covered in canoe with 2 boatman (one back and one front) slowly guiding us through the waterways using long bamboo poles to power the boat. We stopped midway for a traditional Keralan rice lunch served on a banana leaf. Of course Indian people in general don't use knives and forks and simply use their hands, but we were all given a spoon to aid us in our eating. The peace and tranquility of the backwaters was certainly a nice way to end our travel time in India.

We've had a wonderful time here but its definitely time to leave – I think there comes a time in ones travels in India that you have just had enough and need a break – it doesn't change the way I think about the country – I still think its an amazing place and a place that we both want to come back to in the not to distant future – the north has yet to be explored!

Of all the countries that I have traveled too in the past 10 years – I think this is the one that has affected me the most. It is a country that, from when I can remember, I have always wanted to travel too and even now I want to come back for more. Its hard to articulate exactly how and why? Every day something about the country surprises you!! Today, in Chennai, we got a taxi just a few short kilometers from the centre of town and wandered into a Cafe (Cafe Coffee Day) and it feels as if we've just walked into some European/American upmarket chain of coffee houses and the clientèle are just as fitting – just another little reminder that we are in a country of diversity – and the other half lives no differently or more lasciviously than we do at home. I think the big thing is the sheer size of the population and the wealth divide that comes with that – but its is so obviously inter-weaved. But its not just the population and poverty, it's the attitude and actions of the people you come into contact with that make it unique. There is one way of doing things: the classic example is ordering from a menu – I wanted a grilled cheese sandwich for lunch one day and on the menu was chilly cheese toast – so I asked for a cheese toast without the chilly – the waiter said “oh no you can't have that, its not on the menu”, so I asked him to check with the chef if maybe it was possible. He came back and said “no, it's not possible but you could have a cheese sandwich” – so I asked him if he could toast or grill the sandwich, and he said yes. Is that not chilly cheese toast without the chilly!! This happens over and over again – its amusing, but after a while frustrating. Its the little things that make you love and loathe the country simultaneously. The longer you are here your tolerance for nagging rickshaw drivers (its hard to walk 100 m down the road with out being asked if you want to go sightseeing, only 50 rupees, or where you going you need a lift, etc...) or persistent salesmen lessons (browsing in a shop for free really doesn't exist!) and your thrive for personal space increases (doesn't exist here).

What we'll miss about India:

The stunning and diverse scenery – from the mountains to the beaches and everything in between. Hampi – what a bouldering hot-spot, all the wonderful people we met, both climbers and locals. The hardworking ladies in their beautiful and colourful saris. All the wonderful arts and crafts – from wall hanging to bed covers, furniture to ornaments, clothing to jewelery – I wanted to buy it all !! Friendly locals. Strangers on the train who over you some cookies and genuinely want to chat and help you out. Smiling chatty kids, just wanting to say hi to you!! Food – tasty, tasty, tasty, colourful and spicy – curries from all over the south, flavors to tickle the taste buds (well that is when your remember to ask for it not too hot and your are not in tears by the end!) and differing with every new place we went. Blue skies. Ladies queues & quotas : in many (most) public places there's a separate queue for ladies, which is invariably faster and normally you can get 2 tickets for what ever you are queuing for. Indian Rail, well not sure if I will actually miss it, but its certainly a good system and services a huge part of the country.

What we won't miss about India:

The constant smell of open sewers and rubbish. Rubble / cracked and broken paving revealing the smelly drains. The lack of environmental awareness (rubbish rubbish everywhere – and there are street cleaners – I think its a case as long as its not on my front door step). The lack of personal space. The men and their attitudes towards women - western women in particular. Sometimes its as if I'm not there, but others they stop what they are doing to have a good look. But its not just that (and I am making sweeping general statements, as I've met some really nice hard working lovely and genuinely friendly Indian men) to me a lot of the men come across as lazy with the women taking on the brunt of the hard work and the men sit around and at most discuss things, whilst fixing their hair, retying their skirts (yes skirts – traditionally the men wear a sarong type skirt). The roads are in an awful state, but it was women I noticed with the pick axes with five or so men standing around looking and chatting as the woman did some backbreaking work. It's also the women who work the tea plantations doing all the pruning. Seeing the poverty all over the place, particularly the small children. Being asked by a random stranger while walking up the street minding your own business “With what country are you from?” for the fifth time that hour. Getting stared at. The Indian queuing system - barge forward and skip everyone, then smile and head bob. Pushy Indian sales men and rickshaw drivers. Car horns.

What we are looking forward to:

The refreshing thought of my own personal space - I think I might be agoraphobic. Friends and family. Hot water as the norm not a luxury. Girly products (ok, Andrew not so much on this one) - I'm not being picky some essential things just aren't available. Fresh fruit please, there is plenty of fruit but its hard work and that's when you trust it. A glass of tap water. Ice. Meat (ok this is Andrew). Bowl of cereal and ice cold milk (ok, that's for Andrew too - mine was slightly more specific, bowl of crunchy nut clusters and ice cold milk from LEINSTER – preferably Premier Daires, but Avonmore will do).

And its with mixed feelings we leave, a lump in my throat as I'm not done with the country – but I need a break!!