We have just spent the last few days busing down the coast of Vietnam.
HUE
Just a few hours here, a break from the monotony of the long overnight bus journeys. We thought it deserved a quick look being the ancient Vietnamese capital. It was not unlike Chiang Mai, in that part of the old city is surrounded by a moat and it is walled as it would have been years ago.
Hoi An
My Son was supposed to be the highlight of Hoi An. Ancient Champa ruins, temples and villages, most of which was distroyed in the vietnam war. However, the little back streets of Hoi An with all the art galleries and photography exhibitions really impressed me.
Nha Thrang
Ah this was supposed to be our beach relaxing stop. A couple of days just chilling on the beach. However, it was not so. It was overcast and chilly - with nothing other than a beach, we headed south to Dalat.
Dalat
Again,we got our seasons wrong. This is a rainy season place - with walk through waterfalls. Unfortunately all were dry - so we just wandered around the city and headed for Saigon for the New Year.
December 31, 2006
December 28, 2006
Christmas & Halong Bay !!
Well Christmas came and went and was uneventful really but in a spectacular location - Halong Bay, about a 3 hour drive and a 4 hour ferry from Ha Noi. Picture small solid limestone islands dotted in a small bay as far as the eye can see. Everywhere you turn all you see is limestone, more than a lifetime worth of undeveloped sport climbing of all grades and styles.
We took a ferry to Catba, the largest and inhabited island in Halong Bay. From there we hired a boat for 2 days. A whole boat all to ourselves (well including our 2 friendly Vietnamese, driver and cook) for only 100$ between us. Not bad. And supposedly they knew were all the climbing was too. Sweet.
Unfortunately, all the climbing they knew of was 2 islands one with 45 degree overhanging madness and the second one single solitary multipitch route on a slab. Oh well they tried and certainly was a bad place to be. The only down side is I managed to catch a bug and felt awful for the majority of it...
We took a ferry to Catba, the largest and inhabited island in Halong Bay. From there we hired a boat for 2 days. A whole boat all to ourselves (well including our 2 friendly Vietnamese, driver and cook) for only 100$ between us. Not bad. And supposedly they knew were all the climbing was too. Sweet.
Unfortunately, all the climbing they knew of was 2 islands one with 45 degree overhanging madness and the second one single solitary multipitch route on a slab. Oh well they tried and certainly was a bad place to be. The only down side is I managed to catch a bug and felt awful for the majority of it...
December 22, 2006
Good Morning Vietnam
Or should I say goodnight, seeing as we arrived last night. My first impression of Vietnam and particularly to Hanoi - were they are crazy, crazy people and should not be let behind the wheel of anything that drives. Our bus driver spend the entire journey on the wrong side of the road, honking his horn (for a 45 minute journey), all other road user just had to get out of his way. It was nuts.
However, on second impression it is quite a nice city. Full of small, narrow streets, lots of markets and not so much traffic as in Bangkok. We spend the day wandering the streets, visiting the temples & the cathedral, the lake, the markets and even had lunch at a boulangerie. I had to pinch myself - I thought I was in Paris for a second, but no there are plenty of boulangeries and patisseries and they are very good.
However, on second impression it is quite a nice city. Full of small, narrow streets, lots of markets and not so much traffic as in Bangkok. We spend the day wandering the streets, visiting the temples & the cathedral, the lake, the markets and even had lunch at a boulangerie. I had to pinch myself - I thought I was in Paris for a second, but no there are plenty of boulangeries and patisseries and they are very good.
December 20, 2006
Vang Vieng - Climbing in Loas
We just spent the last 3 days climbing near a little village called Vang Vieng (or not so small a village). The first day was in an area call Sleeping Wall. We had to rent bikes and cycle to it. The setting was magnificance, however the climbing was dirty and a bit loose. There are few bolts and mostly tat ... which for me makes it a bit scary.
The second day was more of an adventure. A 7km cycle out of town - to a blue house (this was supposed to be our land mark)... there are loads of blue houses. Down a lane and across a paddy field, where we locked our bikes. Then to the river, which we waded across, our bags high on our backs - luckily the water was only waist deep. Then a hike through the jungle where we found the Tha Nam Thaem Cave, head torches on and off we went underground for about 10 minutes. We popped out the order side and low and behold there was the climbing area. Unfortunately the quality of routes didn't live up to the trek in. The routes were short, dirty and scrappy. We did 3 routes, which had a combined height of about 20 metres tops. But what can I say the approach was fantastic.
Yesterday, however, my faith in rock climbing in Loas was restored. We climbed at Phe Tham (I think that is how it is spelled) and did 6 routes. 3 of which were FANTASTIC. My only complaint is all the tat.... but they swear it is safe.. hmmm.
The second day was more of an adventure. A 7km cycle out of town - to a blue house (this was supposed to be our land mark)... there are loads of blue houses. Down a lane and across a paddy field, where we locked our bikes. Then to the river, which we waded across, our bags high on our backs - luckily the water was only waist deep. Then a hike through the jungle where we found the Tha Nam Thaem Cave, head torches on and off we went underground for about 10 minutes. We popped out the order side and low and behold there was the climbing area. Unfortunately the quality of routes didn't live up to the trek in. The routes were short, dirty and scrappy. We did 3 routes, which had a combined height of about 20 metres tops. But what can I say the approach was fantastic.
Yesterday, however, my faith in rock climbing in Loas was restored. We climbed at Phe Tham (I think that is how it is spelled) and did 6 routes. 3 of which were FANTASTIC. My only complaint is all the tat.... but they swear it is safe.. hmmm.
December 16, 2006
and great breakfasts...
nothing like a banana pancakes smoother in chocolate to wake you up in the morning.
December 15, 2006
Luang Prabang
What a lovely town/city!!
It is a sleepy little river side city, with a french colonial influence. And it certainly lives up to its reputation. Imagine a smally french village, surrounding with palm trees, mountainous jungle in the background and flamboyant temples dotted here and there. We spent the morning wandering around the streets and markets, drinking coffee and eating great food.
It is a sleepy little river side city, with a french colonial influence. And it certainly lives up to its reputation. Imagine a smally french village, surrounding with palm trees, mountainous jungle in the background and flamboyant temples dotted here and there. We spent the morning wandering around the streets and markets, drinking coffee and eating great food.
Moving into Laos
As we say goodbye to Northern Thailand and hello to Laos, we embark on a 7 hour bus journey and two 7hr boat journeys before we finally arrive at our destination. Oh my goodness, how will I manage.
The mini-bus to Chiang Khong was rather uneventful. The town itself is very small and really only serves as a border crossing. So after getting our Laos visa, we hoped on a small wooden boat and crossed the Mekong river to another small one horse town on the other side, Huay Soi. It kind of reminded me of a small town in the wild wild west. The best thing about it was the amazing sunset over the river.
The next morning we got up early and down to the pier to catch the boat to Luang Prabang via Pra Beng. Unfortunately unknown to ourselves we arrived 3 hrs early, and the boat left an hour late. So we were sitting on very uncomfortable wooden seats for far to long - ouch. The amazing tropical jungle scenery, with sleepy little villages in the trees made up for the discomfort. However after two days we were more than happy to leave the boat behind.
The mini-bus to Chiang Khong was rather uneventful. The town itself is very small and really only serves as a border crossing. So after getting our Laos visa, we hoped on a small wooden boat and crossed the Mekong river to another small one horse town on the other side, Huay Soi. It kind of reminded me of a small town in the wild wild west. The best thing about it was the amazing sunset over the river.
The next morning we got up early and down to the pier to catch the boat to Luang Prabang via Pra Beng. Unfortunately unknown to ourselves we arrived 3 hrs early, and the boat left an hour late. So we were sitting on very uncomfortable wooden seats for far to long - ouch. The amazing tropical jungle scenery, with sleepy little villages in the trees made up for the discomfort. However after two days we were more than happy to leave the boat behind.
December 11, 2006
December 10, 2006
December 8, 2006
Treking
Just spent the last few days trekking in the jungle. It was a great experience. The first days we trekked through a number of small villages, before spending the night in a wooden bamboo hut thing beside a waterfall.
The next day took us to some elephant for a little elephant trek and finally we floated down the river on a bamboo raft.
Unfortunately, this computer won't allow me attach a photo, but I've managed to upload a few to flickr flickr.
The next day took us to some elephant for a little elephant trek and finally we floated down the river on a bamboo raft.
Unfortunately, this computer won't allow me attach a photo, but I've managed to upload a few to flickr flickr.
December 3, 2006
Crazy Horse Buttress
Finally we found our way to the crag, crazy horse buttress. Fantastic climbing at all grades. I think I did one of the best 6a's I have done to date. Slightly steep, big jugs, sustained all the way, fantastic.
To top off the climbing, we rented a moped to get around. Its great fun - flying down the road, towards the crag, on a moped.
To top off the climbing, we rented a moped to get around. Its great fun - flying down the road, towards the crag, on a moped.
Chiang Mai
Aren't mother's great? As I embark on traveling halfway across the world, my Mum informs me that a friend of her's daughter is living in Chiang Mai and that I should get in touch. So as soon as we arrived, that is exactly what I did do. I met Katie for some food in the local market and had a wonderful evening. It was great to catch up. And there was alot of catching up to do. We think the last time we saw each other was about 18 years ago...
Chiang Mai is a lovely city. Although it is a big city, it doesn't feel like it. Lots of narrow winding streets, lovely markets and hundreds of temples.
The feeling we get is that no one has a kitchen in Thailand. As soon as it gets dark the streets come alive with people cooking on the streets, lots of street stalls with wonderful exotic food to choose from, it is really quite amazing. And the food is fantastic.
Chiang Mai is a lovely city. Although it is a big city, it doesn't feel like it. Lots of narrow winding streets, lovely markets and hundreds of temples.
The feeling we get is that no one has a kitchen in Thailand. As soon as it gets dark the streets come alive with people cooking on the streets, lots of street stalls with wonderful exotic food to choose from, it is really quite amazing. And the food is fantastic.
Bangkok
The adventure has well and truely begun. Arrived in Bangkok on Wednesday morning, and managed our way, thai style, to Khao San Th. My first impressions of Bangkok didn't really change as the time passed. It is another large buzzing capital city, very smoggy and lots of traffic.
On our second morning, we decided to get a Tuk tuk. A kind of thai taxi - for an hour the guy promised to take us to alot of the big temples, the sleeping buddha, the standing buddha and the travel agency, and all for only 5 baht (about 10cent). He did most of what he said took us to lots of temples, the travel agency, A TAILOR, A JEWELLER, .. Apparently for each customer they bring to these shops they get commission. Finally he left us stranded in the middle of nowhere... where we were picked up by another tuk tuk.. who drove us around to more shops... before finally bringing us home - very tired and a little annoyed. However the adventure cost us nothing and we saw a large chunk of Bangkok.... at that moment, we decided we would head to north, to Chiang Mai and booked our 12 hour over night bus journey for an expensive 5 euros....
On our second morning, we decided to get a Tuk tuk. A kind of thai taxi - for an hour the guy promised to take us to alot of the big temples, the sleeping buddha, the standing buddha and the travel agency, and all for only 5 baht (about 10cent). He did most of what he said took us to lots of temples, the travel agency, A TAILOR, A JEWELLER, .. Apparently for each customer they bring to these shops they get commission. Finally he left us stranded in the middle of nowhere... where we were picked up by another tuk tuk.. who drove us around to more shops... before finally bringing us home - very tired and a little annoyed. However the adventure cost us nothing and we saw a large chunk of Bangkok.... at that moment, we decided we would head to north, to Chiang Mai and booked our 12 hour over night bus journey for an expensive 5 euros....
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